Body Work II
The original idea was to do everything to the body I needed to do to get it on the frame. This provided more difficulty that I thought as there are many many interdependencies. I needed to repair the roll cage attach points. Below is the start of the fill. Cardboard panels with wax paper allow the glass to be set and the backing to be removed easily. Notice the many holes in the floor and the rubberized shutz used on the interior panels. A real pain to remove.
Since the body is not hanging from the rafters (like Keen's - heh heh heh), I had to tilt it to get to the underside to glass it and finish it. While no one will see this when completed, I couldn't bring myself to leaving it a rough or unpainted finish even on the underside.
The glass was followed with filler, sanded, and primed. Oh yes..... let's talk about paint.
I used to paint - Lacquer. If you know paint, you know that lacquer was used to repair cars for a long time due to its ability to blend well and dry fast. This is true even of cars with enamel-based paint. Another quality of lacquer is that it is non catalyzed. You can leave it in the gun for a long time. With a slow job ahead of me and knowing that the final paint would be a Dupont catalyzed finish system with clear coat, I decided that I would paint the interior and the underside of the car (yes I'm going to paint the entire underside of the car) and engine compartment semi-gloss black. This would keep me away from the final blue (Azure) until the end and provide a good look. I also would need gray lacquer primer to coat the repair work (dries real fast and is immediately sandable). This would allow me to keep primer in one gun and black paint in another indefinitely to use as needed during the long repair process. Well just you try and buy lacquer primer or paint nowadays. It's like a black market thing. Friggin EPA let me breathe that stuff for years.
After a long search. I found one place in the U.S. where I could get the exact equivalent of Dupont 80s light gray lacquer primer. It's Southern Polyeurethanes in Georgia. Around $30/gallon plus UPS hazardous material fees ($19). I found that Sherwin Williams still had SherLac on their web site so I went to the local Sherwin Williams automotive finishes outlet and asked the young woman behind the counter if they sold SherLac. With a bit of a stunned look she hesitated and then said "We're really not supposed to sell lacquer in Oregon anymore but.. we do have a few left there on the shelf - black only." YES!!! and discounted down from $84/gallon to $36/gallon. I bought 2 gallons and flattening base. Now back to our story...
So I want to paint the left gas tank area of the engine compartment and get the tank in but I need to rivet in the sill then as the rivets are underneath the gas tank. I go to attach the V8 sill and guess what? It does not fit. The wheel wells were ever so slightly expanded with the S4 and so the area between the A-pillar and the well is shortened by about a half inch. As such, later sills do not fit on older cars. What to do? What to do? Give up the project? Heeeellllll No! Get out the sawzall!!!
A few bits of fiberglass in the eyes, a wedge piece of glass removed, some new glass added and ... Now it fits!
If the P-Zero's rub, I'll just do the rest of the mod all around the well but at least the sill fits now.